Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela

[Bridget and Peter]

Decision is made, partly thanks to Kiwinomad's excellent journal on Le Puy which shows it deserves a separate expedition all to itself (and probably by foot).

It will be the Vezelay route all the way. Departure date is 4 weeks away tomorrow. Eurostar and TGV booked to Reims, including the bikes. The maps, guide books and french dictionary are cluttering up the sofa and I'm taking them up to bed as well for late night consideration.

Some questions, especially at the moment on the route pre- Vezelay, which someone just might have a opinion on...although I know it's a long shot.

Is Troyes a city not to be missed? If so what should we see there?

Does any one know anything about the 'piste cyclable' which is marked on the map along the west banks of the Lakes in the Foret d'Orient national park?

And of Auxerre, Tonnere and Avallon - which of them should we plan to go through? And why?

Any other tips?

many thanks

[Paulus]

Hi,

Are you following the Gr 654 most of the time?

Is Troyes a city not to be missed? If so what should we see there?

Spend there only one night so I cannot say something about it. Was not impressed.

Does any one know anything about the 'piste cyclable' which is marked on the map along the west banks of the Lakes in the Foret d'Orient national park?

Yes there are some more good routes for bikers there: I always used them for my skeelering. Take a look at: http://voiescyclables.free.fr/documents/AubeVelovoie.pdf
There's also one near the Lac du Der, that's near the route GR654.

And of Auxerre, Tonnere and Avallon - which of them should we plan to go through? And why?

Auxerre is a very great city which i did avoid when I walked that part of the route. there's a nice cathedral...that's all I know!
Tonnere is a lovely place with a great fosse and an old hospital: if you can ...stay there and maybe it is an option to use the camping in Tonnerre where you can hire a litlle wooden cottage on the camping-site for one night (about €50). Friendly people!
Avallon is great but a bit touristic: I live some 15km south of Avallon.

Good luck and Buen Camino
Paul

[Bridget and Peter]

Thanks, Paulus, for your helpful comments.

We have a guide for the GR 654 so it is a good source of information, especially about accommodation (we're intending to camp quite a bit). But obviously there are bits which won't be suitable for the bikes, and also it doesn't seem to ever take a direct route when there's a a longer alternative!

I toyed with the idea of ignoring the GR654 entirely and leaving Reims in the direction of Epernay but the possibilities of following river/canal (less ups and downs) changed my mind and then the Lac d'Orient looked a lovely route. The GR654 doesn't do Troyes, nor Avallon, but does do Tonnere and Auxerre - making a sharp turn to the west after Tonnere which seems unnecessary.

Sounds like Tonnere would be a good place for an overnight, and Avallon better for a brief stop on the way through?

Yes there are some more good routes for bikers there: I always used them for my skeelering.

What IS skeelering?

[Paulus]

What IS skeelering?

I believe you call it inline speedskating:
Bit off-topic but here's my equipment:


Back to the route:
After Tonnerre you can follow the road to Chablis (GREAT withe wine there and also a fine camping just before Chablis at your left) and than go southwest to (I think) Irancy , Cravant and/or Vermenton. (You do not come in Auxerre in this way.)
There you can follow the national route or the walkers path at the other side of the river Cure. You are then near Vezelay: it's cathedral is a must!
You are right that you do not come along Avallon: it's a bit east of Vezelay (16 km I guess) and youre route goes direction Corbigny and Nevers and that's south-west.

Pleasure to give the info!
Paul

[Bridget and Peter]

What IS skeelering?

I believe you call it inline speedskating:
Bit off-topic but here's my equipment:

Wow!!
Respect!!

After Tonnerre you can follow the road to Chablis (GREAT withe wine there and also a fine camping just before Chablis at your left) and than go southwest to (I think) Irancy , Cravant and/or Vermenton. (You do not come in Auxerre in this way.)
There you can follow the national route or the walkers path at the other side of the river Cure. You are then near Vezelay: it's cathedral is a must!

I've looked at that route on the IGN 1:100,000 map - the contour lines are very close together in places! Another possibility that looks possible is going south from Tonnerre through Ste Vertu and Nitry, across the autoroute, and through Joux-la-Ville and Precy-le-sec to reach the Cure at Voutenay-sur-cure. This misses Chablis, I know , but presumably we can buy the wine elsewhere! Can't carry a lot on the bikes, unfortunately. Or, south from Chablis and over the motorway to R Cure also looks possible?


Can you also tell us how much we are likely to pay for a night in a Municipal camping site, for two of us and one lightweight tent. We tend to avoid more glamorous sites with clubs and swimming pools etc. Are we right in assuming the municipal ones are likely to be more basic and cheap? We have never camped in France before.

thanks again

[KiwiNomad06]

In 2006 in the Loire area, I mostly only paid about 5 Euros a night for one person with a bicycle in a municipal camping ground, so it was very cheap! But, even the fancy ones with pools etc sometimes had a 'special rate' for cyclists, who usually only take up so little ground with a small tent, and so they often never cost much more.
Margaret

[Bridget and Peter]

In 2006 in the Loire area, I mostly only paid about 5 Euros a night for one person with a bicycle in a municipal camping ground, so it was very cheap!
Margaret

That's a relief, especially as I have just ordered TWO books on medieval architecture from Amazon (other online book stores are available). I was thinking in terms of not actually taking them on the trip, but on second thoughts, a heavy (in literary terms, rather than weight) but relevant read is good for travelling because you have to read slower. Last year I read Pilgrimage by Jonathan Sumption which was a history of pilgrimage. And a novel I found in a hostel that I read in one gulp in one evening!

[Paulus]

Are we right in assuming the municipal ones are likely to be more basic and cheap? We have never camped in France before.

yes, that's correct. Most prices are between 10-15 Euro's for 2 persons+tent and sometimes less.

[I've looked at that route on the IGN 1:100,000 map - the contour lines are very close together in places! Another possibility that looks possible is going south from Tonnerre through Ste Vertu and Nitry, across the autoroute, and through Joux-la-Ville and Precy-le-sec to reach the Cure at Voutenay-sur-cure. This misses Chablis, I know , but presumably we can buy the wine elsewhere! Can't carry a lot on the bikes, unfortunately. Or, south from Chablis and over the motorway to R Cure also looks possible?
thanks again

yes, i remember Nitry is a good option and afterwards to Voutenay. No problem! The wine can be bought in a supermarket also!